Veneziani – ahead of her time

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Jole Veneziani opened her atelier in the fashion district of Milan, in via Montenapoleone, in 1944. Her design style was heavily influenced by the alta moda fashion school of Rome, though the lines were considerably simplified, in order to fit into the more streamlined lifestyle of Milan. Her elegant, yet minimalistic, silk cocktail and evening gowns were considered to be way ahead of her time in 1950s, famous for their draped neckline. For daytime style, she suggested to go for a tailored, modest and dignified classical elegance, whereas the evening wear needed to be the “party of colors, light and shadows and different textures”. The list of Veneziani’s famous clients from Milan high society and European and Hollywood celebrities included, among others, Josephine Baker, Maria Callas, Marlene Dietrich, Sandra Milo, Franca Rame, Ornella Vanoni and Elsa Martinelli.

Jole Veneziani, kes avas oma ateljee via Montenapoleonel 1944. aastal, looming oli eelkõige suunatud Milano kõrgseltskonnale ning Euroopa ja Ameerika kuulsustele, olles mõjutatud Rooma alta moda koolkonna traditsioonidest, kuid selle jooni oluliselt lihtsustades. Nii nägid ‘50ndatel tema poolt looduna ilmavalgust elegantsed minimalistliku joonega siidist õhtu- ja kokteilikleidid, mis olid oma ajast tunduvalt ees. Veneziani defineeris päevast stiili kui “kehassetöödeldud, tagasihoidlikku ja väljapeetud klassikalist elegantsi”, samas kui õhturiietus pidi olema “värvide, valguse ja varjude ning erinevate kangatekstuuride pidu”. Veneziani klientideks olid teiste seas Josephine Baker, Maria Callas, Marlene Dietrich, Sandra Milo, Franca Rame, Ornella Vanoni ja Elsa Martinelli.

Photo credits: original fashion magazines of ’50s Novita’ and Bellezza, Accademia di Costume e di Moda di Roma.

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