Capri & Geometric Patterns – Emilio Pucci

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Emilio Pucci, the marquis of Barsento, was born into the one of the oldest noble families originated from Florence, but relocated to the picturesque and wealthy district of Posillipo in Naples. And thus it’s no wonder that his creations were thoroughly influenced by the vivid patterns and bold colors of Southern Italy.

He launched his fashion career by opening a couture house and high fashion boutique in Capri, in the legendary beach club La Canzone del Mare, in 1949. It was also the time when his long research into the specifics of innovative stretch fabrics had started to produce the first successful results, which led to the creation of his first beach and resort collection. The first beachwear designs were quickly followed by colorful silk scarves with geometric patterns and by wrinkle free silk blouses and dresses in the distinct bold Pucci-style. He was also well loved among his high society clientele for his ski costumes that, as opposite to his main design line, had a very minimalistic line.

1950s brought him a rapid success, as the international widely traveling Jet Set clientele, European and Hollywood celebrities, made from Capri their favorite summer destination. Soon after came the opening of his boutiques in Rome and other cities and his celebrated geometric patterns became known as the “Pucci pattern”.

Posillipos Firenze ühe vanima aadliperekonna järeltulijana sündinud Emilio Pucci (Barsento markii) pani oma moekarjäärile aluse moemaja-kõrgmoebutiigi avamisega 1949. aastal Capri legendaarses rannaklubis Canzone del Mares. Samal aastal viis Pucci kauaaegne uurimustöö venivate kangastega ka tema esimese rannarõivaste kollektsiooni loomiseni, millele peatselt järgnesid värviküllased geomeetriliste mustritega siidsallid ning sama julge disainiga kortsumiskindlast materjalist pluusid ja siidkleidid. Täiesti eraldi liinina kogusid kõikjal maailmas kõrgklassi klientide seas populaarsust ka Pucci elegantselt minimalistliku joonega suusakostüümid.

1950ndad tõid Puccile kiire edu, kuna tolleaja Euroopa ning Ameerika ringireisiv kõrgseltskond ehk Jet Set ringkond oli teinud Caprist endale ühe eelistatuima suvise ajaveetmiskoha. Peatselt järgnes butiikide avamine ka Roomas ja mitmel pool mujal, kuulsate klientide ülistused ja värviküllaste geomeetriliste printmustrite tuntukssaamine „Pucci mustrina“.

Photos: web archives

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